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ABOUT FUSING AND LAMINATING

Prefereing leader on the market with fusing and laminating machines

Our  company has been prefereing leader on the market  with fusing and laminating machines VEIT Group with its VEIT (old KANNEGIESSER  branch) which has been using absolutely seamless fusing belts. Everything  you always  wanted to know about fusing…

How to avoid Running a Risk  in Fusing

Garment  manufacturing  cannot be imagined without fusing these days. Fusing could  therefore be  expected to have become a matured technology by now. Nevertheless,  it  has become an increasing issue lately: Changes in the material, in  quality  expectations and textile care methods entail more and more  unpleasant problems,  which are often realized after an entire batch of defective pieces has been  produced. What counts is to minimize the risk  in fusing – a real challenge.

The  challenge

  • Modern fashion fabrics and interlinings are more delicate.
  • Fabrics are generally finer and lighter.
  • They are more sensible to temperature and pressure.
  • They have more tendency to shrinkage under temperature.
  • Many fabrics are elastic, some in both directions.
  • Textile finish with softeners can effect fusing.
  • Modern fusible interlinings are lighter and thinner.
  • There is more chance of strike back of resins.
  • For a soft hand the resin quantity should be at minimum.

However,  fusing should be perfect

  • with no damage to the fabric,
  • without deformation,
  • with sufficient bond strength,
  • also in day-to-day practice,
  • also in foreign production,
  • every day,
  • productive and cost effective.

First condition

The fusing equipment must be perfect:

Controlled heat and pressure  application according to the material

  • by a precise and  effective heating system,
  • by a sensitive and  exact pressure system,
  • by a material friendly  transport system,

Reliability and safe operation,

  • by a strong machine  design,
  • by safe function of  all machine components,
  • by easy maintenance  and service,

Productivity

  • by using the correct  working width,
  • by sufficient machine  capacity,
  • by well designed work  stations,
  • by loading aids for  soft fabrics,
  • by modular stackers.

What  is Fusing Temperature ?

Fusing in fact  is  lamination of two ore more textile surfaces by using thermoplastic  resins. Therefore  temperature is the most important (but also the most  critical !) factor for the  application of fusing. In the day-to-day practice there are generally two kind  of „temperature“ mentioned:

  • the temperature suggestion of the  interlining supplier,
  • the temperature setting or  reading on the fusing machine.

The fusing  result is  very much depending on the question whether or not the set values are indeed at exactly the points where they should be. A fusing machine has different temperature levels:

Remember:  
To secure  sufficient bond strength a  certain minimum glue line temperature is needed, whereas for avoiding of  fabric damages the surface temperature of the belts should  be as low as possible.

This contradictory   requirements must by all means be considered in the design of modern  fusing  equipment, particularly in view of the increasing number of  delicate fabrics.  For the proper selection of fusing machine settings  it is important to know  that the temperature development in the glue  line depends very much on the  weight of the fabric to be fused, and  that the temperature curve can vary  drastically, as shown in the  following graph:

System temperature

A good harmony  in the  design of heating elements, heating zones, temperature control, temperature contact, belt and pressure system is crucial for an optimal glue  line temperature situation, particularly when fusing fabrics with  varying weight. Decisive is here the contact  between fusing material and heating surface by the interaction of heat zone  curvature and belt tension:

Another  important design condition: The system  temperature, which is the temperature at the hottest spot on the actual  electric heat source, should be as low  as possible for the following reasons:

  • to avoid overheating  of the material,
  • to avoid belt damages  when the power brakes down,
  • to reduce energy cost,
  • to minimize  temperature radiation,
  • to avoid cooling down  times when switching off the machine,
  • to avoid temperature  variations.

The best heating  system does not make sense when the temperature  control system is poorly designed. Its functions  must be fast and precise.  At any time the temperature on the belt surface  must correspond with  the reading of the temperature regulator. There may not be  any  temperature swing, regardless of the degree of loading the machine with   material. A slow reacting control system leads to unacceptable  temperature  variations, whereas a fast reacting system keeps the fusing  temperature on a  constantly even level, as shown in the graph.

Slow  temperature control systems require a setting at  the lowest point, in order to avoid underfusing – with the disadvantage,  however, that the unavoidable temperature peaks lead to overfusing, shrinkage  and resin strike back.

How to check temperature and heating system of a fusing machine?

  • Most suitable for a temperature test are the well-known paper measuring tapes.
  • The measured temperature between the belts  (without fusing  material) at medium machine speed should be in  accordance with the temperature reading on the thermostat.
  • In case of a separate digital temperature  reading it should,  after heating-up of the machine, indicate  exactly the temperature setting.
  • The easiest way to test the glueline temperature is also by using the paper tapes.
  • To test the capacity and the reliability of a  heating system one should prepare a number of swatches of heavier  fabric and interlining with temperature tapes in-between, pass  them through the machine successively and compare the results: All  tapes should show the same temperature.

The heating capacity and the geometry of the heating zones are decisive for the application of a fusing machine in view of the material to be fused:

  • Lighter material like for shirts, blouses or dresses require generally lower heating capacity or shorter heating zones.
  • In this case the main heat should come through the  face fabric side, in order to have the melting resins flow towards the face fabric.
  • If primarily heavier fabrics are to be fused, or in case of sandwich or multi-layer fusing,  higher heating capacity and a longer heating zone is needed to  make sure that the machine capacity can follow the loading speed  of the operators.

In this  case heating form both top and bottom side with separate control  is  advisable to guarantee the correct temperature balance.

1. Heating Profiles: with specially treated  surface and optimum curvature  for best belt contact
2. Heating Mat: intimately  laminated to the inside of the profile for best heat  transfer
3. Sensor Position: ideally next to heating  mat and belt contact surface for  quick reaction
4. Contact Surface: continuous contact with  the belts for continuous heat flow
5 .Profile Thickness:  relatively thin for fast  heat transfer to the belt surfaces
6. Curved Heating Zones: for intensive contact between  material and  heating  surface by high fusing belt tension
7. Separate Heating Zones for optimum adjustment of the  temperature balance  according to fusing method.

The Pressure System

Whilst the  intimate contact in the heating zone is important for the temperature built-up and the resin flow in the material, a precisely controlled pressure in the pressure system as well as an exact adjustment of the specific  pressure and a mild pressure application are crucial for an optimum anchoring of the resins in the fiber structure of the fabric.

There are basically two different pressure systems  available:

1. The standard pressure system

It consists of  two  pressure rollers, of which at least one is coated with silicone, to  absorb  minor differences of thickness within the material or between  the material  layers.

Normally the  pressure  is applied by the force of pneumatic cylinders onto one of the two   pressure rollers, whereas the other roller is fixed to the machine  frame. The  specific pressure between the rollers is variable by adjustment of the air  pressure.

Because of its  limited  elasticity the silicon coating can only absorb thickness variations within limitations. In other words: Simultaneous fusing of different material  weights can lead to bond strength problems on the lighter  material. In addition: Varying coverage of the machine working width  can also result in varying bond strength because of the different  distribution of the total pressure force depending on the width of the  parts when passing the rollers.

Therefore a  standard  pressure system is primarily suitable for fusing of light fabrics like for shirts and blouses. When fusing heavier material on a standard pressure system one must consider the degree of belt coverage for an accurate adjustment.

2. The FLEXO pressure system

In the FLEXO  system  one of the two rollers is designed as an air-filled flexible hose. The   internal air pressure of the FLEXO roller is precisely adjustable to the   required specific fusing pressure, which is perfectly even distributed  over the  complete working width of the machine, regardless of material  thickness or belt  coverage.

Due to the air  cushion  effect the pressure is applied to the material much milder compared to   standard systems. The advantage is less flattening and less shine.

As a  result the FLEXO pressure system is suitable for all different  fabrics  with important extra features for production flexibility and fabric   friendly high quality fusing.

Specific Pressure and Pressure Evenness

Contrary to flat  bed  presses, it is almost impossible on continuous fusing machines,  to  determine the exact pressure applied to  the material to be fused,  except for those with flexo pressure system. The  specific pressure is  not only depending on the pressure reading on the pressure  dial, but  also from a few additional factors, such as:

  • hardness, thickness  and surface of the silicone coating,
  • thickness and hardness  of the material to be fused,
  • degree of machine  width coverage.

Therefore when  fusing  with a machine equipped with a conventional pressure system the pressure   adjustment must be decided after fusing tests with the specific  material. A  swatch of a standard part width should be used for finding  out the optimum  settings, considering the best possible bond strength,  surface and handle results.

Additionally it  is  advisable to tests the evenness of the pressure over the working width  of  the fusing machine. After testing the evenness of temperature one  should load  the machine over the working width with several samples of  the same material  combination and check the bond strength of all  samples. in case they are not  even it is necessary to check the  pressure roller coating for delaminations,  partial hardening or other  surface changes, which could easily be caused by  aggressive belt  cleaning chemicals.

Flexibility by different Pressure Systems

  • Most suitable for a temperature test are the well-known paper measuring tapes.
  • The measured temperature between the belts  (without fusing  material) at medium machine speed should be in  accordance with the temperature reading on the thermostat.
  • In case of a separate digital temperature  reading it should,  after heating-up of the machine, indicate  exactly the temperature setting.
  • The easiest way to test the glueline temperature is also by using the paper tapes.
  • To test the capacity and the reliability of a  heating system one should prepare a number of swatches of heavier  fabric and interlining with temperature tapes in-between, pass  them through the machine successively and compare the results: All  tapes should show the same temperature.

Flexibility in Pressure made  by KANNEGIESSER

Single  Pressure System „C“

  • all kind of ordinary fabrics
  • outerwear  mainly
  • reliable and sturdy

Double Pressure System „CU“

  • special treated fabrics
  • dress and casual shirts
  • flexible pressure range
  • for all kind of interlining

Flexo Pressure System „CF“

  • for sensitive fabrics
  • balancing thick and thin fabric
  • soft pressure supply
  • for single and sandwich fusing at the same time
  • sadwich fusing
  • thick and thin shell fabric at the same time
  • high quality fusing for outerwear

The Conveyor System

The conveyor belts  are the most delicate  design elements of a continuous fusing machine.  Their function, however, is  crucial for the performance of all other elements. Therefore they have to meet  with high expectations:

  • They must be strong, with high  tear and tensile strength.
  • The surface must be smooth, to  avoid marks or structure transfer on  delicate  fabrics.
  • The surface should not allow any  resin adherence.
  • They must withstand temperatures  up to 250 ° Celsius.
  • They must be thin for optimum heat  transfer.
  • They may not change their  dimensions when heated up.
  • They must have a smooth teflon  coating.
  • To avoid shifting of  material they must have an antistatic  treatment.
  • To avoid marks they should not  have a thick welding joint.
  • The belt edges must be sealed, to  avoid fraying.

It goes without  saying  that not only the belts but also the other design elements of the   transport system of a fusing machine must offer the required precision  and reliability:

  • The speed of both belts must be  perfectly synchronized.
  • The tracking control system must  be very sensible.
  • Variations of the belt tension  must be compensated automatically.
  • The belt  tension should be  relatively high and precisely adjustable, in order to  assure an even and intensive contact.
  • Belt changes should be easy and  fast. There should be no belt welding on  or in the machine.
  • Belt cleaning devices should be  available according to the particular use of the fusing machine.

1.  Cover Belt:

  • endless high tech fabric
  • smooth surface
  • Teflon coating

2.  Tracking Sensor:

  •  for sensible belt tracking control – no damages of belt edges

3.  Control Roller:

  • gentle horizontal movement
  • no overstreching of belts

4.  Safety Sensor:

  • for additional safety
  • stops machine if belt goes off

5.  Belt Tensioning:

  • for uniform belt tension
  • for intensive heat contact

6.  Tensioning Roller:

  • for compensation of belt tension
  • for centered belt tracking

7.  Transport Belt:

  • endless high tech fabric
  • smooth surface
  • Teflon coating

Organization and Productivity

Depending on  labor  cost and productivity requirements the economy of a fusing division can be just as important as the securing of quality.

The economy of fusing is determined by quite a few factors:

  • bundle size,
  • bundle preparation,
  • matching of interlining bundles,
  • cutting precision, particularly of  interlinings,
  • fusing method (single, sandwich or  block fusing),
  • distribution of operations to the  operators,
  • work place engineering (shelves  for fabric and interlining bundles),
  • work aids (tape shooters etc.),
  • degree of training and experience  of operators,
  • lane configuration and lane width,
  • length of loading area,
  • Input batch conveyor feeding  station,
  • matching of loading times and  machine speed,
  • safety of machine functions (exit side!),
  • unloading and stacking of fused  parts,
  • work flow to following operations.

The capacity  depends on material, quantity and variations of fabrics and interlinings to be fused. The exact capacity can only be calculated according to the individual situation of the particular production.

Data Bank for Fusing uses as basis a time table of the different handling operations in connection with fusing. This time modules are the major part of the Capacity Calculations which are available for all different kinds of garments like jackets, overcoats, shirts etc.

The individual  capacity calculation considers:

  • all fabric and interlining parts,
  • the fusing method,
  • planned or actual production  figures,
  • daily working time or shift time  in minutes,
  • the individual efficiency,
  • the individual cost per minute

Fusing Systems

Well organized  loading  systems as well as modular stackers are excellent supplements to a fusing machine. The individual components can be:

  • input batch  conveyor,
  • workplace  engineering,
  • lay-up  stacker,

Input Batch Conveyor:

  • for better work flow and shorter  through-put times,
  • for improved loading capacity: The  parts are moved automatically and at high speed into the fusing machine.
  • for loading of instable and  elastic material without deformation.
  • The length of the active loading  belt is adjustable to the part length.
  • Available for one or two lanes,  two lanes can be combined.

Work Place Engineering:

  • modular system  for individual design,
  • catalog of  different shelves for different part sizes,
  • single or  multiple racks,
  • inclination  for easier part handling,
  • universal  stand.
  • lateral loading  table
  • return-feed system
  • tape un-winding and re-winding device with shelve

Modular Stacker Systems:

  • universal lay-up stacker, model  AST, for all part shapes and sizes.

Service and Maintenance

In order to make  sure  that a fusing machine works problem-free, it is vital to take care for regular maintenance and service including checking of all major functions. A nice side effect can in most cases be a cost reduction. This relates particularly to the conveyor belts. These are made of a rather delicate material and should therefore be on the first place of  the maintenance list:

The Ten Golden Rules of Belt Care

1. Interlinings should not overlap: They soil the conveyor  belt. (And it is waist of  material!)

2. Temperatures set too high cause resin strike back and soiling of the cover belt.

3. During the breaks the belts should regularly be cleaned  from dust and dirt with the cleaning flag.

4.Cleaning agents should be used carefully, in order to avoid  build-up on belt inside, rollers or  heating elements.

5. Never use aggressive chemicals or sharp tools for cleaning: This shortens the belt life.

6. Covers or towels of cleaning bars or cleaning devices should  regularly be checked and replaced.

7. Transfer and strip-off blades should be cleaned in regular  intervals from resin and dust build-up.

8. The machine must be cleaned before shut-down: Resins  hardened over night cut the belts when  started in the morning.

9. Tracking and Tension of the belts should regularly be checked and  readjusted, if required.

10. Scissors should be tied up  with a string: Fused scissors are not  in fashion.

Systematic  maintenance ensures  constant trouble-free function  of a fusing machine. This, however, requires some checks and control operations by the machine operators or the maintenance personnel which ideally should follow clearly defined  and listed rules.

In order to make  a systematic maintenance easier we generally equip all fusing machines with a so-called Maintenance Guide Sheet,  placed in a little box on the side panel of each machine. (To often not used !)

The idea is to have  listed on one page all daily, weekly and monthly maintenance functions which should be confirmed and signed by the responsible people.

Control and Securing of Fusing Quality

Since fusing is a crucial process  in garment  manufacturing, it is not completely without risk. For this  reason it is  necessary to follow, aside from regular maintenance, a few  important rules to secure fusing quality:

1. For each fabric the most suitable  interlining should be selected, possibly under the assistance of the interlining supplier.

2. New fabrics should be pre-tested,  including dry-cleaning or wash test, to find out the optimum fusing conditions.

3. The fusing equipment must daily be  checked for the basic functions, particularly for  temperature accuracy.

4. The pressure system must daily be  checked by fusing several samples  over the working  width and  testing the evenness of bond strength.

5. The test results should be recorded  in a journal, in order to check back if later  on fusing problems come up.

A  well designed fusing system – properly used and regularly maintained together  with a good concept of quality control are the keys to reduce the risk and the cost of fusing to a minimum !

Service

Quite many factories have only one fusing machine  available. In these cases the complete production is definitely depending on this bottle neck machine. Therefore the safe functions of the fusing equipment must be guaranteed.

For this reason  only those products should be considered for which in case of break-down a manufacturer trained service is available within reasonable time! To have clean belts and the fusing machine is most important thing to have good results for fusing and laminating!

We are at your disposal to supply you spare parts for Kannegiesser and of course appropriate customized made-to-measure size fusing belts, fusing belts, cleaning agents, temeperature measuring strips.